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7D6N Taiwan Adventures: Taipei and Hualien Part 1

When I first chose Taiwan as my destination, I had in mind to be more in touch with nature - hiking and cycling. Hence, I chose Hualien as my second city (aside from Taipei). The east coast and Taroko Gorge are both famous for their picturesque sceneries. I spent more of my time in Taipei, since we flew in and out of Taoyuan International Airport, but when I head to Taiwan again, I'll probably skip the city and head straight to the countryside!

Day 1: Taipei
We landed in the afternoon, so we headed straight to check in to our Airbnb (at Zhongshan District, Xingtiangong station). Following that, we decided to check some night markets off the list. Our first destination was Wufenpu. My sister and I outgrew quite a bit of the Taiwanese/Korean fashion so we didn't get anything. But, if you're looking for cheaper t-shirts, skirts, pants etc, this is the place to go. It reminded me of Ehwa district in Seoul. There are quite a number of shops selling guys' clothes too! We took a walk down to Raohe Night Market for dinner and to soak in the Taiwan atmosphere. You should have small bites at the night market because there are just so many things to try! If this is your first time, just be daring and have a taste of the different types of cuisines. Since we're Singaporeans and Singapore has such a huge range of Taiwanese food, we skipped the trying and went straight for things that we liked. Captions are below the pictures.

 You should see this sign for the entrance

 This is the first store you'll encounter! They sell black pepper pork buns and there should be a long queue for it but it moves quickly

 They bake the buns in these things!


 This is how the black pepper pork buns look like

 There are many stalls selling beef cubes. You should try them!

Taiwanese fried oyster. Honestly I prefer the taste of the Singapore ones but these are more generous with the oysters.

Day 2: Taipei (Yangmingshan hike, Shilin)
We had breakfast at this quaint little cafe called Zhenfang because it was near our accommodation. The signature toast is highly recommended! The rest of the toasts are pretty standard and can be found at other Taiwanese breakfast toast joints as well.

Signature toast - egg, cabbage, cheese, peanut butter, sausage patty

Things to bring on the hike: snacks, water, raincoat (especially in summer), windbreaker (gets rather windy at the top), shades/cap

Time required: hiking time is about 3.5 hours up and down, travelling time takes about 45 min up from Jiantan station and 1.5 hours back from Xiaoyoukeng trail end point

Directions to Yangmingshan:
- Take a train to Jiantan station. From there, take any of the buses you see at the interchange that goes to Yangminshan. There are multiple buses and usually the queues are extremely long and filled with university students because there is a university on Yangmingshan. The bus journey is approximately 45 min long.
- Walk up to the Visitor's centre. The walk there along is a little hike of about 700m. There are some signs along the way, but you can also ask the locals, they are always willing to help!

The visitor's centre is the starting point for the trails. There are signs to direct you to the various trails up to the Seven Stars peak, which is the highest peak on Yangmingshan. We chose the Miaopu trail, which is the fastest and the steepest way up.

The trail is filled with many stairs, so be prepared to sweat and climb! Also, if you go in summer like we did, it rains quite a bit so the stairs get slippery. Be careful when you step on them! It's about the same the whole way up, with some flat ground along the way.

 The signage indicating the start of the trails





 Group photo on the way up


The peak was too cloudy and windy that day!

We took the Xiaoyoukeng trail down. This is the recommended trail heading down because the slope is gentler and there are less stairs so it's not as dangerous when it rains. There are many sulphurous spots along the way and they do smell like rotten eggs so you'll definitely know that you're on the right track if you encounter them. Otherwise, the signages are pretty good and easy to follow!

Scenery for Xiaoyoukeng

Xiaoyoukeng doesn't lead back to the Yangmingshan Visitor Centre, so we had to wait for the bus to take us down. The buses don't come very often though and the journey back is rather long since they stop at other scenic spots as well (Yangmingshan is huge).

Took the bus back to Jiantan station and continued to explore Shilin since it's at the same area. We were a bit early for the night market but Shilin has some shopping area as well and I managed to find more clothes that were more suitable for my style! Honestly, I felt that the night market was disappointing because they changed it to an underground one and there isn't much anymore. Still, we managed to find some food there (all the stalls are similar after awhile).

Day 3: Taipei (Day trip to Jiufen and Shifen, Ximending)
I would recommend to put the day trip out to Jiufen and Shifen together because they are on the same Pingxi train line. You can opt to buy a day pass that lets you enter and leave the train for an unlimited number of times in a day, but we decided to just focus on Jiufen and Shifen so we didn't get the pass.

Directions to and fro Jiufen:
- By train: take the mrt to Taipei Main Station and buy a local train ticket to Ruifang. At Ruifang station, walk to the police station and take bus 788/827 from the bus stop called "district square" in front of the police station. Jiufen is about 4km away.
- By bus: 1062 travels from Zhongxiao Fuxing station to Jiufen and back

Directions to and fro Shifen:
- By train: From Ruifang station, take a train towards Jingtong on the Pingxi line
- Note: there is no direct way to get from Jiufen to Shifen. You will need to go back to Ruifang.

We opted to go to Shifen first by train before heading to Jiufen and then back to Taipei via bus 1062.

Things to do at Shifen:
1. Shifen waterfall - it's about a 15-20 min walk depending on your walking speed. It's free, and it's rather pretty but you'll experience some splashes from the waterfall, and because it's near the mountainous region, rain has a higher tendency to fall.
2. Walk through the Shifen old street and have a hand at releasing the lanterns, taking photos on the railway, eating street snacks, drinking bubble tea. It's a quaint old street and makes very nice photos!

 Take a touristy photo at the waterfall


 Stroll along small rivers

 Take a picture along the railway when trains are not passing by!

Lantern releasing 

Things to do at Jiufen:
Walk around the old streets and try various types of food that have made their name internationally. Jiufen is like the asian version of Santorini and looks rather similar to Gamcheon Cultural Village in Busan, Korea.
 The santorini of Taiwan

 Please try the fishball vermicelli! They're cheap and good


 Menu for the fishball vermicelli (it's the third from the left and costs 45 NT)

 Lai Ah Po Taro Balls
 Honestly not my favourite because it was just all starch and sugar. Overrated.

This is the cafe inspiration for some scene in Spirited Away!

Ximending - good for shoes, accessories, food
The famous Ah Chung Mee Sua is here!! It's a bowl of rice vermicelli with a starchy gravy that contains pig organs. I highly recommend eating it with chilli and vinegar.
Hotstar fried chicken has also opened a franchise at Ximending so that makes such a good snack as well. These are the 2 must-eat Taiwanese food for me.

 Ah Chung Vermicelli

 Menu - Small 55NT, Large 70NT


Hotstar fried chicken!

5 days Stockholm Itinerary and Review of Stockholm Pass

There are many museums in Sweden and it’s full of culture. Hence, we decided to get the 3-day Stockholm pass so that we could cover as many as we wanted without having to worry about overspending! Honestly, the Stockholm pass would probably be more worth the money in summer, when all the cruises and day trips are available. It also comes with the option to buy a travel card, which was good.

I’ll do a review on the attractions that I found interesting and worth going for.

Stockholm winter tour 
It’s a must-go because it’s the only cruise that’s operating in winter. You’ll get to have a big overview on the different islands in Sweden and also listen to a brief historical background on some of the interesting and noteworthy points of the city! I found myself remembering the stories even months after the trip. I chose to go in the evening when the sun was setting so it made the tour really pretty because the boat was lit up with Christmas lights.


Skansen open air museum 
This was by far my favourite attraction. You get to walk around everywhere, and it's huge! It ranges from the historical towns to animal farms for children, as well as some arctic animals in the region. Oh, and the view there is stunning. Extremely worth the time.

 Glass blowing





Junibacken
There is a cool story train that you MUST take when you're there. You aren't allowed to take pictures on the story train but it will bring you through 3d models of Astrid Lindgren's stories. Also, there are life-sized doll houses that children (and smaller adults) can play in. I loved it!






Skyview at Globen
It’s another ride that gives you an overview of the entire city, but doesn’t overlap with the winter tour. It’s essentially somewhat like a Ferris wheel, except that you’re going around the circumference of the globe, which made it rather cool.

Fotografiska
I was a bit hesitant at first because it's just photographs and art work. But some of the works were really interesting and their concepts are rather cool. I did enjoy my time there and we spent quite a bit of time exploring the artists' thoughts.

Other things we visited that I didn't find as interesting:
Cathedrals (see one, see all)
Nobel museum (too crowded, it's just a history of the people who've won it)
Vasa museum (cool to see the ship but that's about it)
Royal palace (it's just a glorified house)

We also managed to take a nice walk through a forested area from our Airbnb! This was one of the highlights of my time in Stockholm.



9 days Finland: Rovaniemi and Lapland Itinerary on a decent budget

Hello!

I'll be sharing my experiences in Finland, as well as the itinerary I chose to take (:

I feel that Finland is a rather homely country and it's definitely not as expensive as people make it out to be. I can even see myself living there, should I choose to leave the sunny island of Singapore. They also use Euros, which made things a lot easier since the currency is well-utilised in many other countries. Therefore, amongst the other Scandinavian countries, I feel that Finland is the more economical choice.

Day 1: Helsinki 

After landing at about 1.20pm at the airport, we managed to reach our accommodation at about 3+pm. It was more or less dark by that time. Our accommodation was in the Kallio area. On hindsight, it may not be the best area to stay at because there weren't many restaurants around the area and we were lazy to travel far since it was dark very early. Also, the bar and nightlife areas weren't as "hipster" as the other travel websites made it out to be.

We decided to just walk to the K-supermarket nearby and bought groceries for breakfast and dinners over the next few days. Tip: always find an accommodation near a K-supermarket, they're extremely useful!

Travelcard: We bought a travel card for 3 days since we were only in Helsinki for that amount of time. We had to buy the regional pass because we intended to go to Espoo, and the airport was in Vantaa.

Day 2: Helsinki city walk

We chose not to buy the Helsinki pass because we felt that it wasn't worth it (that decision proved to be right). Hence, we went for a free city walk instead.

This was the path we took:
Finlandia Hall (free entrance, place where concerts are held)
National museum (only took photos on the outside)
Rock church (3 euros per person, worth going)
West harbour (don't bother, there was nothing much there)
Helsinki old church (only took photos on the outside)
Strindberg (oldest cafe, can consider having lunch there, about 25-30 euros for mains)
Esplanade park (pretty lightings near Christmas period)
Uspenski cathedral (free entrance)
Presidential palace and city hall (in passing)
Senate square and Helsinki cathedral

We ended our walk at the biggest Christmas market in Helsinki and spent a rather long time there. There are a few things you'll tend to see there!
1. Arts and Crafts - wooden or woolly crafts
2. Food - smoked in general
3. Drinks - you HAVE to try the Gloggi if you're there during Christmas!

 Random christmas trees with jar decorations

 The inside of the Rock Church

Outside of Uspenski Cathedral

 The biggest Christmas market in Helsinki

Blacksmithing at the Christmas market


Day 3: Helsinki - Nuuksio National Park

We travelled all the way to Nuuksio National Park! How to get there: take a train to Espoo from Pasila Bole station, transfer to bus 245 to Haukkalamentie bus stop (warning: it's in the middle of nowhere). The bus stop is 2km from the Haukkalampi starting point.

I took the 4km blue trail (you can see the blue markings on the trees along the way). I think it's a very doable trail for beginners who are doing winter trekking for the first time. It took us a total of 3 hours to complete the whole trail (beginning from the bus stop).

I thoroughly enjoyed the winter trekking experience (it was my first time!), though there are few things to note if you're intending to do trekking during winter:

  • Walking on compact snow/ice is extremely slippery even with boots. Try your best to find fresh powder to walk on! You'll get the hang of it as you trek more.
  • Do not over-wrap yourself as you will get warmer as you trek.
  • Drink water! You will sweat even in winter. In fact, the chances of heat stroke increases because you don't lose heat as easily through sweat.
 At the bottom of the trail

Somewhere along the way! 

 The highest point we went to

Snow all around!

Day 4: Helsinki Zoo - overnight sleeper train

We had a free day and we pretty much covered the places of interest in Helsinki, so we decided to check out the zoo, since creation is one of our greatest passions.

My advice: do not go to the Helsinki zoo in winter. Most animals are either hibernating, or it's too cold for them to be out and hence, they are kept indoors where you can't see them. Also, you do freeze when walking around. 

Nevertheless, we did have a good time walking around seeing arctic animals we never could have seen in our tropical island! 

Some personal thoughts: 
  • The enclosures do not have any moats, they are just surrounded by glass doors. It's rather cool because you are closer to the animals. 
  • The enclosures are rather huge for each animal. They have a lot of natural habitat space to roam around.
  • They aren't particularly well-maintained. Glass isn't clean, grass uncut etc. I suppose it creates the "wild" vibe. 
My Airbnb host was nice, he allowed us to use his place till we had to leave for the sleeper train so we managed to cook dinner, shower and be fresh before we left!

The sleeper train was rather cramp but quite cool! There's space to put your luggage, albeit not a lot (luggage has to be closed, not opened). For someone with motion sickness, I didn't mind it the movements of the train that much because it's quite stable. I was even able to knock out for a good 7-8 hours! By the time I woke up, we were almost at Rovaniemi! I highly recommend the sleeper trains because they save travel time and one night of accommodation.

 So cute!

 Poison arrow dart frogs

 Look at how close the tiger was!

 Pretty pretty snow leopard

 We finally had sun that day! It was so gorgeous!
One of my favourite photos of us <3

Days 5-9: Rovaniemi

I suggest you book safaris for Rovaniemi because it is difficult for first-timers to know how to navigate through the snow and darkness. I booked 2 nights of Aurora Borealis (in case we couldn't see any for one of the nights) and also a snowmobile + reindeer and husky safari.

Review for Aurora hunting with Lapland Welcome
They're extremely professional and they supply you with good thermal overalls, which will save your life, trust me. On the way, they will also explain the scientific knowledge behind the formations of Auroras and provide you with the best setting for your DSLR so that you're able to capture the lights. I had an extremely good experience with them and won't hesitate to recommend them to anyone who wishes to go.

Some tips for aurora hunting:

  • Bring a proper camera, and by that I mean a DSLR (or at least a semi-pro camera). Forget normal digital cameras or phone cameras or go-pros. They don't let in enough light to capture the pale northern lights.
  • Camera settings - Long exposure (at least 20s), set to manual focus and the distance should be infinity
  • DO NOT use flash. It is extremely inconsiderate because it will ruin other people's photos. Furthermore, you won't see a thing.
  • Please wear gloves. Your hands will freeze while trying to operate the camera. You might also want to bring some extra batteries. My nikon ones lasted me all the way and never died but I heard that other brands don't last as long. 
 One of the better pictures - only started to get used to it later in the night, but the auroras died down by then ):

Started to make funny shadow pictures

Review for Day B programme by Arctic Snowmobile Park 
This is a great overview programme for those who want to experience everything in a day. I felt that it was more worth while compared to the others. But of course, it really depends on whether you prefer reindeer/husky sledding, or snowmobile. Our main default mode of transport was snowmobile so each couple was given one snowmobile to ride. We did a 500m reindeer and  2km husky ride, which was really nice but not nearly as fun because it's rather short. The animals also have their own agenda sometimes, which is fun to watch.

The last bit of the agenda is a free buffet lunch at the Santa Claus Village. I enjoyed the buffet lunch but not the santa claus village because I felt that it was too touristy.

Some things to note:
  • It's extremely cold when you ride and the cold wind is just blowing against your face. If you have a llama face mask, bring it. Otherwise, they will provide but it's not as sanitary. 
  • Wear warmer socks and gloves that day. Your extremities will start to freeze along the way. 
  • You just need one single-driver supplement per couple. Then you can swap the main driver along the way as you wish, but both MUST bring driving licenses. They're really strict on that. 
It's a reindeer!

 With the llama masks and helmets on

 On the husky sled

Other things we did
Rovaniemi is pretty dead without the Safaris, and you'll need to be careful because many things close on Christmas eve and Christmas day so be prepared to cook your own food, stay in, play in the snow etc. but they had a theatre that was opened on Christmas. We also managed to go and see their science centres (Artikum and Pilke science centre), which weren't too bad. 

Recommended Restaurants:
Ravintola Roka Street Bistro - serves good quality casual dining food at affordable prices. Portions are huge. (We had a salmon risotto and pork sandwich)
Nili restaurant - good if you want to try Finnish traditional meats and food, such as bear. 

 Gorgeous sunrise!

 One of my favourite photos of the trip!

 It was really difficult to jump in thick clothing